Settling Into the Rhythm and Discovering If a Komodo Liveaboard Is the Best Way to Experience This Legendary Dive Destination
The engine rumbles to life, the port slips from view and with a giant stride into blue, the rhythm of Komodo takes over. This isn’t just another dive trip — it’s a test: Is life on a liveaboard the ultimate way to experience one of the world’s most legendary dive destinations?
[Read Part One: I booked a month in Indonesia without a solid plan. What could go wrong?]
Why I Chose a Liveaboard I booked a liveaboard in addition to day-boat diving to get the full Komodo experience. Is it strictly necessary? Not really. But was it the right choice? Absolutely.
After arriving at the quay via ferry terminal, a launch took us to the boat moored offshore. Our gear and luggage were already waiting. Within 30 minutes, we had the briefing, met the crew and set off.
With just five guests onboard, it was the smallest group I’ve ever had on a liveaboard—even smaller than Dragon Dive’s day boats. Our first site: Siaba Besar.
Check-Out Dive at Siaba Besar All liveaboards begin with a check-out dive. While these usually cap at 12 meters (40 feet), we hit 22 meters (72 feet) here, signaling this trip wasn’t for beginners. I wouldn’t recommend it for anyone without at least an Advanced Open Water certification and 100 dives.
Everyone dove nitrox, included in the trip price. The onboard membrane system meant each diver had two tanks and we left our rigs on the tender with the crew swapping cylinders for us between dives. Initially, the crew analyzed our gas, but later we locked our computers in at EAN29.
The water ranged from 28°C (82°F) to 25°C (77°F). I started in a 3mm suit and ended up wearing a 2mm long-sleeve top under that. The dive was a smooth 59 minutes with no current and great buoyancy across the group. One note: gloves weren’t allowed on the first dive but permitted afterward.
Life Aboard: Daily Routine Days began around 6:00 a.m. with coffee. Dive briefings started at 6:30 a.m., though the schedule was flexible. Our dive master, Erno, communicated clearly and adjusted for currents, tides and traffic.
Most days included three dives, sometimes four. The boat repositioned between dives and did night crossings to beat other groups. Meals were served when moored, and night dives were always in protected coves.
Night dives began in full darkness, usually after 18:30. We backrolled in with torches lit and saw incredible marine life, including a curious whitetip shark.
The generator ran overnight initially, causing some vibration and sleep issues. A quick request fixed it. Water pressure was hit-or-miss and hot water was fleeting.
The Real Reason We’re Here: The Diving Komodo delivered on its reputation for currents. Sites like The Shotgun were true thrill rides. Expect purging regulators, mask-ripping current and adrenaline-pumping fun. (Full Shotgun write-up coming next.)
Currents also mean nutrients, vibrant reefs and close encounters with mantas. Visibility hovered around 20 meters (66 feet), with fish often just arms-length away.
Dive Site Highlights
- Mawan: Shallow drift, rays everywhere, bottom at 10 meters. Great for long, relaxing dives.
- Manta Point: Like Mawan but with more structure. Shared space with mantas and a giant sweetlips.
- Manta Alley: Most dramatic topography. “Viewing” station at 25 meters with amazing manta action.
We often had dive sites to ourselves thanks to smart scheduling. During high season, that’s rare.
Shore Excursions & Surface Intervals Two land excursions were included:
- Komodo Island Dragon Trek: Totally worth it. Dragons mostly lounge or patrol beaches but a game warden took us a little further into the forest to see some lounging dragons. Expect to pay 100,000 IDR per person for the trek.
- Sunrise Hike: Packed with visitors but undeniably beautiful. This is also in the national park and a fee of 100,000 IDR per person is required to make the hike. Well worth the cost.
Liveaboards beat day boats when it comes to timing and site access. We avoided the crowds and had pristine reefs all to ourselves much of the time.
Final Thoughts You don’t need a liveaboard to dive Komodo, but if you want to maximize your time, beat the crowds and see the best the park offers, it’s a smart move.
Next Up: A Full Breakdown of The Shotgun Dive Don’t miss the next installment. Subscribe to The Dive Plan and follow along.
Digital Pelagics 